AA Water Cooled Big Turbo for RZR XP Turbo | 112-1024
SKU: 23221158682

AA Water Cooled Big Turbo for RZR XP Turbo | 112-1024

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Description

AA Water Cooled Big Turbo for RZR XP Turbo | 112-1024Turbo fits 2016 2021 RZR XP Turbo Models including Turbo S New for October 2022 : Our proven turbo now uses larger AR housings like the Pro XP turbo for even more flow and less back pressure. We went to the larger housings after testing and finding with the correct tune adjustments this turbo can spool just as fast as our standard water cooled turbo offered for years. The biggest difference from our previous turbo is the reduced exhaust backpressure

Turbo fits 2016-2021 RZR XP Turbo Models including Turbo S New for October 2022 : Our proven turbo now uses larger AR housings like the Pro XP turbo for even more flow and less back pressure. We went to the larger housings after testing and finding with the correct tune adjustments this turbo can spool just as fast as our standard water cooled turbo offered for years. The biggest difference from our previous turbo is the reduced exhaust backpressure (even further) which helps resist a knock event (timing retard/slight drop of power) on the same fuel. This is especially true for higher pressure tunes over 24-25psi and where you will see the most difference. If you build your motor with a billet crankshaft and use our wastegate with 15-17psi crack pressure, this turbo will build up to 29-30psi of boost on our race tunes. However, it will also trail ride on a level 2 tune and be wicked fun/reliable for those just looking for a good replacement turbo. New Pro Style housings with an XPT style center section with tucked water lines to make installation MUCH easier than installing an actual Pro XP turbocharger. Pro turbo's require cutting shields, a new drain tube, and all around slight fitment issues. This turbo still requires a bit of routing with the lines, but installs 10x easier than an actual Pro XP turbocharger. Ready to step up to the next level on your XPT and gain some serious power? Up to 255-260 crank horsepower! This complete bolt-on, water cooled turbo is just what you need for up to 25-27 PSI of boost! The water cooled turbo is like what is used on the new Pro XP as the water cooling helps keep charge temps extremely cool. This makes for more sustained power and cooler motor/engine/exhaust temps. Boost temps will skyrocket quickly on the factory turbo, where as with our water cooled turbo and much larger compressor housing, they will be lower... even at boost temps over 25 pounds! Now that we are moving air on the intake side, we need to get that air out. This turbocharger includes a high flow 10 blade exhaust turbine with a larger bore to decrease back pressure and heat buildup in the motor. Heat buildup on the exhaust side is another HUGE issue with the factory turbo. What's essentially happening is you are running out of exhaust flow, and that makes more power very hard to produce. With this high flow turbine, we can increase boost and see a healthy increase in horsepower with our tuning on pump gas and race fuel. The factory wastegate is also a big problem as it's very weak, and as time goes on the spring only gets weaker. Building boost with a wimpy wastegate can produce varied results, hot temps, and turbo overheating. We install a high pressure actuator complete with a new bracket. This wastegate has extremely consistent results, will hold a huge amount of boost, and is a key component in this turbo mod working so well. Each turbo is fully balanced and set up from a professional turbocharger manufacturer. Thinking of another turbo upgrade? Many of our competitors offer an inferior mod, and do not offer the advanced tuning we do. Many use stock wastegates, do not bore the compressor housing, or do not modify the exhaust turbine. These are all huge reasons why our turbo works well. Tuning changes are drastic for modifications like this, and many others do not have the correct tuning knowledge to pair with such mod. ECU Type/o2 Color drop down choice: 2017-18 models ALL have the standard black lead. In 2019+ models blue o2 leads are wideband models and we must know this. These models are a different ECU type and will NOT do an ECU read (we supply your stock file). For more information on this, see this link: https://aftermarketassassins.com/tech-blog/f/rzr-turbo-evap-ca-models# Requires AA custom tunes built specifically for this turbo. Wastegate crack pressure is 7 PSI OEM turbo inducer is 36mm. The AA turbo is 44mm. OEM turbo compressor wheel is 50mm. The AA turbo is a 60mm billet wheel. OEM turbine (exhaust) wheel is 11 blade 39mm. The AA turbo is a 10 blade 44mm Much larger AR housings (snails of the turbo) vs. factory Stainless steel turbine housing has greater corrosion resistance and is less likely to crack like the OEM housing Stock like drivability! Gain another 12-15 RWHP on pump gas tunes over the factory turbo See THIS article on our turbo mod vs. water cooled turbo vs. the Pro XP turbo Big gains in low end performance and crazy high end gains on longer pulls (this mod does not fade off anywhere near as much as the factory setup) Lower EGT's (Exhaust temps) due to higher exhaust flow Lower intake temps before and after the intercooler More efficient turbo all around which is easier on the turbo and motor A must have if you ride in higher elevations where the stock turbo struggles to create boost Our test results on our 2019 Turbo S Show 137-138rwhp. A standard XPT has less aggressive clutching and will show 134-135rwhp stock. Testing results on the dyno have not been ran again since using the Pro XP housings, only field testing where we do all tune finalization. From knowing how the Pro Xp dyno's compared to our WC turbo setup, it's safe to say we are modest on horsepower gains listed below, and actual results are most likely 5-10% higher, especially on level 4 and higher. The Level 2 turbo upgrade tune is a very safe 16-17 PSI 91 octane tune, good to run on any 91 oxy/ethanol. This tune produces 155-160 RWHP peak(calculated 195 crank hp), but will pull much harder and keep that horsepower maintained much better than the stock turbo. The Level 3 turbo upgrade tune offers 18-20 PSI and is also meant to run on 91-93 octane fuel. This produces 175 RWHP (calculated 220 crank hp) and comes on unbelievably strong, and keeps pulling. Those with 91 non ethanol, or 93 even with ethanol will be fine on straight gas. Those with oxygenated 91 might want to think about adding splash of race fuel or VP Octanium/boostane fuel additive. The Level 4 turbo upgrade tune is for 98-100 octane fuel. This will produce 185-187 RWHP (calculated 240 crank hp) at 22-23 PSI and hauls the mail! Most will mix race fuel with pump fuel to get the 100 octane which is what we recommend. A can of Octanium/boostane to your tank will also work with this tune. The Level 5 turbo upgrade tune is for 110 octane fuel and simply drops the hammer! You'll have everyone wondering what is done to your RZR with this bad ass tune. A huge 25-26 PSI of boost that comes on HARD. This tune produces 200-205+ RWHP (calculated 250-260 crank horsepower) on our dyno, and has shown 215-220 on customer dynos. We normally run this tune on 110 leaded fuel. Leaded fuel is harder on O2 sensors but we have not had much of an issue. We would suggest picking up another O2 sensor, or an O2 blockoff to keep around. The Level 6 E-85 turbo upgrade tune is simply unbelievable. Very similar to the 110 tune power, but runs on cheap corn (E85) fuel! This can also be ran on VP or other E85 fuels. This fuel makes the motor run cooler and it absolutely loves it. If using pump E-85, make sure you are between 70-85% ethanol for this tune. 25-26 PSI with a wicked timing curve that produces the same 200-205 RWHP. This tune requires our 1200cc injectors and our high flow fuel pump. Selecting Level 6 will result in all tunes being built to run 1200cc injectors. You MUST run the 1200cc injectors with all tunes if selecting this option. IF you have a race built motor with a billet crank, or just want to see what your OEM motor will handle, we have race level 5 & 6 at 28-30psi we can custom build. Please contact us if this is something you are after. Requires a high flow intake tube as the OEM will not fit over our larger inlet. The AA aluminum intake tube or other silicone intake tubes meant for the stock turbo will work, but be tight. The best option is to use the AA intake tube with our larger coupler(this is an option). Supported mods needed for all levels: AA big turbo tunes for PV, AA high flow intake tube, AA high flow charge tube, AA S3 clutch kit, AA blow off valve, AA slip-on exhaust or a slip-on exhaust that is free flowing. Power levels are shown with the AA exhaust with no quiet core installed. Additional supporting mods needed to run level 4-6: Tighten head bolts to 85ft-lbs or install ARP studs to 85ft-lbs (95 if using custom age 625+ studs), gap plugs to .020", catch can (version 3 is highly suggested), and pre airbox intake tube 2016 models will need our 2017 style injectors and upgraded fuel pump. If wanting to run E85 on a 2016 model, please contact us as you will then need 1200cc injectors... it's just a little bit more complicated. Turbo kit includes: Complete balanced AA water cooled turbocharger with stainless turbine housing, water lines, and instructions See instructions HERE Part number: 112-1024

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SKU: 23221158682

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4.1 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…
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Verified Purchase
William
Fort Morgan, US
β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜… 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
L
Verified Purchase
Leyland Cypress
Belleville, US
β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜… 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video. Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug. Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly. Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012
J
Verified Purchase
JBDoge
Chelsea, US
β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜… 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers. I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part. Here are my instructions for installation: 1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring). 2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down 3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under) 4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end. 5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole. 6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug. 7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand. If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it. UPDATE: I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together... GET THESE!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012
R
Verified Purchase
R. Jackson
Alexandria, US
β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜… 1
'Monoprice' = Worst stereo banana plugs on T-H-E market.
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
The absolute WORST in stereo banana plugs - HANDS DOWN. After installing stereos and components for over 30 years, I'd say I'm experienced. These banana plugs fail at EVERY part of the design. Allow me to explain... 1) Starting with the tips, they are loose off the bat and fit LOOSELY in either the stereo input studs or speaker input studs by their 'girth'. They do not firmly seat in any plug and for this setup, I'm using a nearly $2K setup all together. They 'rock' back and forth (when inserted) and thus create a non-permanent connection, again, seriously making these utter junk. I've seen some items you can get by with over the years, but these aren't even rock bottom. They are unusable! 2) Next, the banana plugs themselves comes as three pieces. No non loosening o-ring seal but a plastic colored want-to-be imitation for positive and negative notation. Why do these stupid things come in three pieces? - I simply can't tell you why. I do know they serve no specific piece to solving the puzzle of installation so why do they come in three pieces...? My speculation is they are cheap china knockoffs. 3) The 'way' in which you normally install the trimmed wiring internally with the 'two-piece' design permits you to firmly CRIMP and hold the unsheathed wiring; but these do not. The overlap/overlay of the exposed wiring can only be about 2/16's of an inch thus not much to create a proper connection with. This single fact eliminates these plugs as even worthwhile component add ons; period. If you can't achieve a good ground/wiring connection, these are a defeated purpose... 4) Because of the design of these, they have no room to crimp and screw on the cable so your forced to nearly break your fingers in an attempt to get the unsheathed wire to overlay the internal threading and twist them on with all your might. This in effect breaks nearly every wire thread internally and then they breaks off inside. Absolute garbage. These are total pieces of non-quality junk that did nothing but makes me waste 30 minutes on attempting to get them securely on and another 25 to locate my Amazon account, find this product in my order and ALARM anyone else from making the same mistake I made. Now, I find out I can't even get a return on these. Thanks Amazon. Thank you third party retailer. You just made me a very dissatisfied decade long customer.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 17, 2016
A
Verified Purchase
Amazon Customer
Port Orchard, US
β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜… 5
Nice quality
Had to return due to our mistake but the mechanic said it was good quality. Ordered the correct size and worked great.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2025

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