Greenhouse Sidewall Ventilation Crank
SKU: 74455341204

Greenhouse Sidewall Ventilation Crank

$68.39 $75.99
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Description

Greenhouse Sidewall Ventilation CrankVentilate your greenhouse with our side wall ventilation hand crank. Easily vent your roll up curtain sidewalls up to 150 feet long! Features Stainless steel handle, full plastic resin casing for long anti corrosion time The 4: 1 Gear ratio provides easy cranking Self Locking and automatic brake holds sidewall in place The drive shaft fits perfectly inside " EMT conduit. Attachment screws included " EMT conduit guide post not included but easily found

Ventilate your greenhouse with our side wall ventilation hand crank.  Easily vent your roll-up curtain sidewalls up to 150 feet long!

Features

  • Stainless steel handle, full plastic resin casing for long anti-corrosion time
  • The 4:1 Gear ratio provides easy cranking
  • Self Locking and automatic brake holds sidewall in place
  • The drive shaft fits perfectly inside ¾" EMT conduit.  Attachment screws included
  • ¾" EMT conduit guide post not included but easily found at most hardware stores

A proper greenhouse ventilation system is incredibly important to any grow operation, no matter whether you’re a hobbyist with a smaller structure or a commercial farmer whose massive house protects their livelihood.

Our greenhouse hand crank can roll up sidewalls up to 150 feet long.  It does so with a durable construction of stainless steel in a plastic resin casing designed to fight off long-term corrosion and wear. What’s more, its 4:1 gear ratio makes for easy cranking and self-locking. The automatic brake will ensure that your sidewall will stay where you want it to.

Watch the Video

With this hand crank, you’ll be able to control the temperature and humidity of your greenhouse.  It also gives you side access to both your low and high tunnel hoop houses. It’s even easy to install; follow these instructions for guidance on how to integrate this greenhouse curtain crank into the creation of your greenhouse.

Why Ventilate your Greenhouse?

Greenhouse Cooling and Humidity Control

Controlling greenhouse humidity with some ventilation system is a must in just about any climate.  Even in cooler climates, greenhouse temperatures can reach extreme levels.  Your plants are more likely to die in a greenhouse from excessive heat than cool temperatures.

Pests and Disease Prevention

Proper greenhouse air circulation is also critical for healthy plants. By rolling up your side curtains you allow stale air to get pushed out of your greenhouse leading to healthier plants with fewer disease and pest problems.  Many common greenhouse pests and diseases thrive on stale and humid air.  Rolling up your sidewalls will allow air to circulate, naturally reducing incidences of these common problems.

Better Pollination

Growing in a greenhouse without natural air circulation can cause poor pollination of your plants.  A breeze naturally sends pollen around your greenhouse so you can avoid the hassle of hand-pollinating every plant.  If you are noticing poor pollination or poor fruit setting, this is a sign that you may need to be increasing the airflow into your greenhouse.

Keeping Your Greenhouse Ventilated

During the hot summer months its critical to keep your greenhouse well ventilated.  Without proper greenhouse ventilation temperatures inside can easily exceed 115°. To keep your plants cool during periods of high heat, simply roll up the sidewalls and keep both end wall doors open. This allows air to naturally keep your greenhouse cool and plants safe from excess heat. 

Shipping Notes
  • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
  • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
  • Delivery to the USA:
  1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
  • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 74455341204

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4.2 ★★★★★
Based on 1245 reviews
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Product Reviews
L
Verified Purchase
L. Yu
Lowell, US
★★★★★ 4
pretty good banana plugs
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
i bought these over 6 months ago and i just installed them to the front left and right floor standing speakers - sony ssf-7000 i have them for over 10 years hooked up to a yamaha 7.1 AVR. alot of people have had trouble installing this - one single banana plug comes in 3 parts - the bottom and top (the banana plug tip) can be unscrewed. what i did was tightened the top first (top being the tip of the banana plug) then unscrew the bottom off completely - make sure you have like 3/4" - 1" (depending on your gauge of wire) of exposed speaker wire that is straight - then thread it through the hole at the bottom up - i then rolled the exposed 3/4 - 1" exposed copper wiring into a ball that is bigger than the hole of the banana plug bottom piece so the wire doesn't fall back through where it came from. then i screwed on the top and middle piece back with the bottom piece - tightening it a bit so i know there's good contact. also make sure the tip is screwed in all the way as well as a double check. what you don't want to do is have the copper wire touch the threaded part of the bottom piece - the wire will cut off from the screwing action. i plugged it into my sony speakers and it wasn't a real snug fit - a bit too loose to feel secure - it didn't seem to go all the way in - but it fit fairly well in my receiver. my intention was to use these banana plugs with my 2 channel set up but i decided to go pre-constructed mediabridge 12 AWG speaker cable instead - those fit my 2 channel set up on my receiver and elacs really snug and secure. i tested it and it works fine. i didn't hear any loss of signal or any extraneous noise. none of my (14 awg?) wiring fell through the bottom and it sounds good. so no complaints there. i bought 5 pairs - but i find that it is an odd number to include a package - even numbered pairs would be better. anyway they seem constructed well - easy enough to install and they do work. thanks for reading
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2019
A
Verified Purchase
AB
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
High quality and robust
Size: 12 Pairs, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Easily the best plugs I've found at a reasonable price. Solid feeling with good quality and they look good with easy to see red/black labeling. The tips tend to unscrew too easily, but this is a non-issue when they are in use, just something you have to be careful not to lose when assembling. It's a bit tricky to spread the wire out evenly at the exact right length. If screwing the plug together is hard at all, go back and shorten how much wire you bend over the lip.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2025
W
Verified Purchase
William
Houston, US
★★★★★ 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
L
Verified Purchase
Leyland Cypress
Louisville, US
★★★★★ 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video. Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug. Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly. Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012
J
Verified Purchase
JBDoge
Boise, US
★★★★★ 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers. I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part. Here are my instructions for installation: 1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring). 2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down 3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under) 4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end. 5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole. 6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug. 7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand. If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it. UPDATE: I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together... GET THESE!
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012

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