Valcourt Manoir Wood Burning Fireplace
SKU: 30632277234

Valcourt Manoir Wood Burning Fireplace

$2362.05 $2624.50
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Description

Valcourt Manoir Wood Burning FireplaceValcourt Manoir Wood Burning Fireplace The Manoir is the updated version of Valcourts very first fireplace. The seel framed double doors and ceramic glass are second to none; they slide effortlessly and without special tools into each side of the fireplace, allowing for an exceptional view of the crackling flames. This fireplace will allow you to be creative when designing your decor thanks to its facade options available in different finishes. In

Valcourt Manoir Wood Burning Fireplace

The Manoir is the updated version of Valcourt’s very first fireplace. The seel framed double doors and ceramic glass are second to none; they slide effortlessly and without special tools into each side of the fireplace, allowing for an exceptional view of the crackling flames.

This fireplace will allow you to be creative when designing your decor thanks to its facade options available in different finishes. In addition, you will benefit from the maximum heat of the Manor thanks to its included fan and the heat distribution options (forced air or gravity).

Specifications

  • Fuel Type: Dry cordwood (16" recommended)

  • Recommended Heating Area (ft²): Less than 1,500

  • Overall Firebox Volume (ft³): 4.25

  • Average Particulate Emissions Rate: 2.9 g/kg

  • Burn Rate: Greater than 5 kg/h (over 11 lb/h)

  • High-Efficiency Certified Appliance: Low Mass

  • Maximum Log Length: 20"

  • Log Positioning: Loading over width

  • Chimney Diameter: 8"

  • Type of Chimney: CAN/ULC S629, UL 103 HT (2100 °F)

  • Minimum Chimney Height: 15'

  • Approved for Mobile Home Installation: No

  • Shipping Weight: 520 lb (236 kg)

  • Door Type: Double, glass with steel frame

  • Glass Type: Ceramic glass

  • Glass Surface Dimensions (W × H): 29" × 17 1/4"

  • Premium Quality Blower Included (CFM): 176

  • Overall Dimensions (Height): 43 5/8"

  • Overall Dimensions (Width): 41 1/8"

  • Overall Dimensions (Depth): 27 3/8"

  • Door Opening Dimensions (Height): 17 7/8"

  • Door Opening Dimensions (Width): 30"

  • Firebox Dimensions (Height): 18 5/8"

  • Firebox Dimensions (Width): 23 3/8"

  • Firebox Dimensions (Depth): 11 3/8"

  • Moulded Refractory Bricks: Yes

  • Cast Iron Andirons: Yes

  • USA Standard (Emissions): ASTM 2515, ASTM 2558

  • USA Standard (Safety): UL 127

  • Canadian Standard (Safety): ULC-S610

  • Warranty: Limited lifetime

Approved chimney types

AC Triple Wall

  • American Metal – HSS: 8" (20 cm)

  • American Metal – HS: 8" (20 cm)

  • DuraVent – DuraPlus: 8" (20 cm)

1" Solid Pack

  • DuraVent – DuraTech: 8" (20 cm)

  • DuraVent – DuraTech Canada (DTC): 8" (20 cm)

  • Olympia Chimney / SBI Venting Division – Ventis: 8" (20 cm)

  • SBI Venting Division – Nexvent: 8" (20 cm)

  • SBI Venting Division – Nexvent: 8" (20 cm)

1.5" Solid Pack

  • Metal Fab – Temp Guard: 8" (20 cm)

2" Solid Pack

  • DuraVent – DuraPlus HTC: 8" (20 cm)

  • DuraVent – Dura Tech Premium: 8" (20 cm)

  • Security Chimney – S-2100+: 8" (20 cm)

  • Selkirk – CF Sentinel (CF): 8" (20 cm)

  • Selkirk – Super Pro 2100 (ALT): 8" (20 cm)

  • Selkirk – Super Vent 2100 (JM): 8" (20 cm)

Note: Specific components may be required depending on the chimney manufacturer.

Minimum clearances to combustibles

(Data expressed in inches. 1 inch = 25.4 mm)

  • Clearance – Top (measured from the platform on which the appliance is installed): 72"

  • Clearance – Combustible Side Mantle to Unit: 8"

  • Clearance – Combustible Top Mantle to Unit: 5 1/2"

  • Clearance – Combustible Side Wall to Unit: 24"

  • Clearance – From the Shelf to the Base of the Fireplace: 48"

Note: The information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the information published in any other media (owner's manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or web sites).

Note: Some appliances have been tested with a low ceiling. Before setting up your unit, refer to the installation manual.

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Options and SKU Numbers

  • Black Modern Faceplate / Modern Gravity Kit - FP1LM+VA1FE05+AC01376
  • Black Modern Faceplate / Traditional Gravity Kit - FP1LM+VA1FE05+AC01375
  • Black Traditional Faceplate / Modern Gravity Kit - FP1LM+VA1FE06+AC01376
  • Black Traditional Faceplate / Traditional Gravity Kit - FP1LM+VA1FE06+AC01375

Frequently Asked Questions?

Do I need an EPA certified or CSAB415.1-10-certified heater?

  • You first have to identify what your needs are. If you are looking for ambiance, a temporary heat source in a cottage or a camp, or a simple back-up heat source in case of power failure, you do not necessarily need to invest more money in order to buy an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater. However, if your goal is to heat on a regular basis, the extra dollars will prove to be a good investment. Furthermore, it must be noted that certified heaters release up to 90% less particles into the atmosphere, which makes wood a renewable and clean source of heat. As a result, if the style and size of the heater you are looking for is available in a certified version, it is highly recommended that you invest in this advanced combustion technology. You will help the environment and reduce your wood consumption by up to 30%.
  • NOTE: If you live in the United Sates, British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or Newfoundland, EPA certified wood heaters are mandatory. Exceptions apply for certain categories of products, such as decorative fireplaces. Certain municipalities may also have by-laws that require the installation of an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 wood heater, even though the province does not have an official regulation on wood heating. It must also be noted that in Canada, the CSAB415.1-10 Standard is equivalent to the EPA Standard. A wood heater that meets this Standard will generally comply with the regulation in place

How do I determine the size of heater I need and where should I install it?

  • Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.
  • If your primary need is to heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.
  • If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.
  • If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200.
  • If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.
  • REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).

The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.

Why is the efficiency as per the EPA’s test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency?

  • EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.

Does my heater qualify under the LEED program?

  • The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.
  • The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.
  • Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria.

Why does the fire go out when I close the loading door?

Possible causes and solutions:

1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.

Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.

2- The air control mechanism is not open enough.

Solution: Adjust the air control mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour.

3- The logs that you are using are too big.

Solution: Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox.

4- The chimney draft is too weak.

  • Solution #1: In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to insufficient heat in the exhaust system. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Close the unit’s door when you reach a flue temperature of approximately 475 °F on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. Note that there is no danger in letting the temperature inside the flue reach approximately 700 °F during the start-up. This is even favorable in order to properly start your heater. You must, however, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit.
  • Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty.
  • Solution #3: The chimney may be too short. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. Twelve feet (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the house) is a minimum. A height of 15 feet or higher is ideal.
  • Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of 1/4" per foot.
  • Solution #5: Your exhaust system may be oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. Most advanced combustion systems (those certified to EPA/CSAB415.1-10) have a 6" flue outlet (152 mm). If your exhaust system does not have a 6" diameter, a solution is to insert a stainless liner with a 6" diameter inside the exhaust system.

Why is the BTU according to EPA test data smaller than the one advertised?

  • You will notice a difference between the BTU output as per the EPA’s test data and what is advertised on our web site and/or product literature. The maximum BTU output we advertise is what will be obtained with a full load of seasoned cordwood inserted inside the firebox. The EPA output, on the other hand, is what has been obtained during emissions testing. The EPA test procedure requires that a special type of wood is used and positioned inside the firebox in a manner that does not represent the way the firebox volume would normally be utilized using seasoned cordwood. The EPA test load is typically much smaller. Hence, the BTU as per the EPA’s test data is reduced. The BTU output that should be considered by a normal user is the one we advertise for seasoned cordwood.

What burn time will I get from my wood heater?

  • The combustion time for an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified, non-catalytic wood appliance depends on many factors, the most important being the size of its firebox. Heaters with a 2.0 cubic foot firebox or more will normally have longer burn-times. From 6 to 8 hours is about the burn time you will get. Some companies will advertise longer burn times, but be careful, this calculation is made from the time you light the fire to the time there is absolutely no combustible left into the firebox. No matter what the appliance model is, the maximum BTU output will be obtained over approximately 33% of the total burn cycle. This represents 2 to 3 hours for a medium-size stove. So realistically, you will have to reload the unit every 3 or 4 hours in order to get the maximum heat out of your appliance when you are home. If you don’t reload the heater and let it burn the remaining fuel, your output will slowly decrease until there is no useful heat left to produce (we call this the “tail end” of the combustion cycle). This “tail end” will provide heat for another 4 to 5 hours. So if you are looking for a 6 to 8-hour burn time, make sure you choose an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater with a BTU output (using cordwood) of 60,000 BTU or more. Appliances with that kind of output all have fairly large fireboxes. If you are going to rely mostly on wood for heating and your house has more than 2,000 square feet, do not hesitate to choose one of our larger units (>85,000 BTU). Those appliances will have a burn time of approximately 8 to 10 hours.

Do I need to install a fresh air intake on my wood heater?

  • A fresh air intake is not mandatory for your wood heater, unless the unit is installed in a mobile home or if the local building code or the manufacturer requires it. If the heater is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must, however, be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air. If the house has a powerful mechanical exhaust system that may be used while the heater is burning (ex: range hood), a fresh-air intake will be required.

How much heat transfer should I get from my fireplace using a forced air kit?

  • Several factors can affect the amount of heat transferred to your rooms through a forced air option. The length of the system, the deviations and the insulation of the conduits can have a major impact. It is recommended to use a short system with few deviations. The heat transfer will be optimized when your fireplace is hot. Heat transfer too soon when the fireplace has not reached its optimum combustion temperature can cool the combustion chamber too quickly and cause poor combustion. An overpowered fan can also lead to the same negative effects. The ideal situation is a lower but constant air flow when the fireplace is hot. We can therefore expect to transfer at least 25% of the heat from the appliance to other rooms. It should be noted that the systems sold with your fireplace have been tested for safety by the appliance manufacturer. If you do not use the original system supplied by the manufacturer, you expose yourself to a risk of fire. If in doubt, consult a professional installer.
Shipping Notes
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  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
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SKU: 30632277234

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★★★★★ 4
Ink is a problem
Printer is great. It prints very nicely.. had no problem setting up.. it all works fine. What I didn't like is the ink is kind of expensive and doesn't seem to last long. Once one color is out .. you can't use at all. Says "print in black" but it only allows that a few pages then it's done even tho there is black ink left. Epson customer service kind of sucks also.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 10, 2025
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A. R. Masters
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★★★★★ 5
Correction: Excellent value, quality and ease of use for color & grey scale; Wi-Fi firmware updates
Straightforward to install on my home WiFi network. The controls and screen are easy to navigate. Firmware updates can be done via WiFi—so much better than downloading an installer to a computer. Surprised that the maximum borderless print size is A3+. I don’t care, because I don’t mind a thin border on 13x19” paper, and intend to print 12x18” or smaller anyway for framing. Good results on real-world test prints with default color and tonal settings in Apple Photos. Astonishingly, perfect color and tonal range in my full-spectrum, full-dynamic range test print of a storefront on 13x19” Matte paper. A garden scene had true hues—borderless on 4x6” glossy paper—but was a bit dark. You wouldn’t notice if you only saw the print. Full tonal range B&W image on glossy paper lost some highlight detail and mid-tone pop compared to what I got from a commercial print shop using Luster paper, but I’m not seeing a color cast reported by others, which is very good news. I bought Epson again after a long hiatus because 1) I have a big stock of paper from pre-covid days, 2) ink cost is not a problem for my limited photo printing needs, and 3) the recent price drop offered a very low up-front cost. This one is smaller and very much quieter than its predecessor. It offers Air Print connectivity, but I prefer WiFi, even from mobile devices. Pretty happy so far. Already useful and B&W may improve with experimentation.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 31, 2024
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ASal27
Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 5
Beautiful, High-Quality Prints — A Great Photo Printer
I was looking for a good quality photo printer that could handle larger sizes, and this Epson XP-15000 really delivers. I’ve been so impressed with the print quality — the 13×19 prints come out beautifully: colorful, bold, and clean. Since it uses individual ink cartridges, it does go through ink pretty quickly, and buying all the separate cartridges isn’t cheap. But the results are worth it. The extra gray and red cartridges really make the colors stand out and give the prints a professional look. I’ve printed a number of images so far, and every single one has come out flawless. I’ve only had it a short time, but I’m extremely happy with it. Honestly, I do wish I had spent a little more and gotten the ET-8550 with the ink tank system, since it’s more cost-effective in the long run — but for what I paid, this printer still does an amazing job. If you’re looking for a printer for craft bags, chip bags, photo prints, stickers — this can handle it all beautifully. I’d definitely recommend it!
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J F Morris
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to set up, print quality is excellent.
I've always been an HP guy but the ink has become so expensive that now I've got no choice but to look at other options. We needed a large format printer that could handle card stock and this printer after much research fitted the bill. We've done quite a few prints the the quality is exceptional. Set up was easy. The printer comes with a CD and quick setup manual, however we needed to go the Epson website to download the actual software suite to be able to print for our needs. The default drivers from the Windows auto installer were not sufficient because we were printing to a custom size of cardstock. After installation of the Epson suite everything was easy and we were off and running very quickly. WIFI connectivity from the printer was easy, the only thing that we had an issue with was the update from the PC however we updated right from the printer screen on the actual printer and it worked flawlessly. The printer has the regular 4 color cartridges as well as a red and a grey. The prints came out with great color accuracy and quality. After a few full page prints the black ink capacity was going down faster so we will purchase extra black ink first just to have it on hand. Also have to say that the printer is very very quiet and we didn't realize it was finished on most of the prints. Highly recommended printer.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 27, 2025
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Kyle H
Dallas, US
★★★★★ 5
A great phone...but compared to what?
Digital Storage Capacity: 128 GB, Color: Black
Tldr: Good phone for this price, noticeably better than older A13 and I wish more people would include context to their reviews. Glad I bought mine. I'm leaving a long and detailed review because I got tired of reading through reviews that seemed contradictory, or said something was "bad" but without any context. If I made a poor choice buying a phone I'd likely be stuck with it for some years. I'm hoping this helps others like myself who are reading the reviews. Ok, so the most important context is what phone I'm coming from over to the A17 5g. My old phone was Samsung A13 5g. My opinions of the new phone will be largely based on how they compare to the previous phone I used. So it's budget phone to budget phone, with the A17 having approximately 3-4ish years newer tech (or same tech but cheaper.) Both phones are being used on metro PCS (T mobile) network. So I've now had the A17 for exactly one week. I primarily use my phone for android auto, text, checking email, web browser, occasional YouTube and maybe once per week on some games. I don't use it for heavy loads like massive file transfers or rendering video. It's fairly light use overall. So far, the things I've been most pleased with are the screen and software/system layout. The screen has decent color and brightness and is MUCH better than the A13. Both screens claim to run at 90hz but the change from the old 270 PPI (I believe stands for pixel per inch or some equivalent) to 385 PPI feels massive. Much cleaner image from text to images. The change from LCD to AMOLED gives much better contrast with deeper colors. The software and system layout are a bit harder to describe in detail. It's more of a personal/ascetic preference. Things look and feel a lot cleaner. There are added optional features like side slide tabs to house shortcuts for certain apps. Another feature is top down swipe from the right for system shortcuts and from the left for notification, so they are smashed together. Another improvement, though less so than the screen and software changes, is in the speed and responsiveness of the phone. This one also needs to be put in context a bit. I'm sure some would complain about it while coming from a more expensive and technologically superior phone. I have my own bias, as I'm coming from an inferior phone which had over 3 years of use (slowing it down over time.) I also use it for mostly light tasks. That being said, I am pleased that the phone is noticeably more responsive than my old one. Most of the lagging happens on start up (goes away after a few mins while the phone is connecting a bunch of apps and putting out/requesting info like date/time/location.) When I booted it for the first time, that was the worst lag I had. It will also slow down if you have several apps running at the same time. I feel like that's obvious, but some people genuinely don't know that if you hit the home button to leave an app, you need to bring up multi view and actually swipe the box away to close it fully. If you never close apps and never restart your phone on occasion it WILL slow way down. While using the phone for max 1 or 2 things at time it runs perfectly fine, and is better than the A13. Battery life is good. I went from appx. 5000mAh to 5000mAh phones, so besides the slight degradation in the old phones battery life it should be the same. 5000mAh for my uses feels excellent overall. It can go for a full 2 days without charging. Charging speed itself seems improved, but that's never mattered too much for me so I can't comment much. Seems fine though, roughly 1.5h charge from mostly dead to full. That's using a 25w fast charger block and appropriate USB c cable. I didn't use the cable that came with the phone so I can't comment. It didn't come with a charger block, by design. Your mileage on charge speed will vary based on what you're using to charge the phone with. The phone can't charge at full speed if you're using a 5w charger from 15 years ago. I don't have much to say about the camera. I rarely take photos and when I do it's usually quick snap shots of paper instructions or to share location. I believe (though I'm not sure) the A13 was also 50mp front camera but either the the other 2 lenses have been upgraded or they improved the camera software, because pictures do look a bit cleaner. It's not night and day or anything, but it looks better to my eye. Camera is also faster to adjust light and contrast when first focusing on a object, as compared to the old A13. Build quality seems a little improved. They are both budget phones and how build quality "feels" is inherently subjective but to me it does seem a little better. A quick note on activating this new phone...this may only be an issue I personally had, but in case this helps someone else I'd like to include it. I had a bit of trouble switching my physical SIM card out of my old phone and into the new. The metro app was telling me the phone wouldn't be compatible unless I changed phone plans (which is BS.) I had to call customer service and they opted to use the eSiM feature, rather than swapping the physical Sim. I noticed they also used the new phones 2nd SIM number to activate it, while i had tried using first. If you're having trouble perhaps check the phones info from the settings menu, and then try eSIM activation using the 2nd address. It worked fine for me after this. Samsung has a quick transfer feature if your previous phone was a Samsung. It basically copies over everything from your old phone, including apps, pictures, contacts and even text message history ect. It took 3 or 4 attempts (it didn't want to connect and dropped the connection once at 30% complete.) Luckily if it disconnects part way through, it will pick up where it left off, without needing to restart. Once it finally had a stable connection it took me about 6 minutes, it will vary based on how much stuff you have to move over. You need to download an app to do the transfer, but it will prompt you and take you to it's link. Summery: I find it pretty impressive how nice this phone feels both compared to its older model and for its price point in general. I found it frustrating that people would say this part or that was crap or great, but without giving any context to what they based that opinion off of. In my opinion, based on how cheap this phone is and compared to its older model (A13) this is an awesome phone so far, being one week in. Screen is a big improvement, system software and layout is better (IMO) and they seem to be making incremental improvements to things like the camera and overall build. For this price point I find it really impressive what you actually get. If you're coming from an older mid range phone I expect it will either be inferior or about the same. If you're coming from another phone in the 200 range it should be decent to good. For less than 200 and for what I use it for though, I'm very happy I bought this phone.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 3, 2026

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CLASSIC V-BELT 1/2" X 92" A90/4L920
10.99
CLASSIC V-BELT 5/8" X 111"
16.99